When training for routes that would require you to function on little or no sleep did you do anything in training that would help mitigate the affects of sleep deprivation?


A lot of money and time has been spent by a lot of very smart and motivated people on this subject. Sadly, they have unanimously concluded that humans cannot train to better adapt to sleep deprivation.

However, you can do two things to prepare:
1) practice climbing and decision-making under "controllable" circumstances while having deprived yourself of sleep so you know what to expect in terms of declining performance. Throw in a little dehydration and caloric deficit to too.

2) Be very well recovered going into the attempt. You can handle missing one night of sleep easily, the second one is tougher and everything slows down, bad decisions are made, motivation is harder to maintain, etc. By the time you get past 48 hours of being awake and activity and stress it's time to get real careful. But if you're in that deep you have no choice but to stay awake and keep going.

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