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STEVE HOUSEaka: The FarmboyAge: 37 Ht/Wt: 5'10” 162# Work: UIAGM-certified guide, technical advisor, Patagonia Ambassador Favorite Drink: Single Malt Scotch |
Pull-ups: 52
2008: After a long, hard year of training Steve, Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj flew to Nepal to attempt the west face of Makalu 8,462 metres (27,762 ft). A combination of illness, unstable weather, and very cold temperatures shut them down. Vince and Marko did climb a new route on Makalu 2 to acclimatize for the west face attempt.
2007: Mount Robson (3,954m), Canadian Rockies. In May Steve made his fifth trip to Robson's Emperor Face. He and Colin Haley flew in and began climbing the next morning. They climbed a new route in 35 hours camp-to-camp and graded it WI 5, M7, 5,800' but the trip didn't end at the top of the face, which they reached at 10:30pm. After a brief respite the pair climbed a couple of pitches to the Emperor Ridge, traversed to the Wishbone Arete, climbed over the summit and down the Kain Route. They descended the Robson Glacier (on skis) and hiked out to the road the next day.
2005: Steve and Vince Anderson climbed a new route on Nanga Parbat's Rupal face! Six days up and two days to descend, pure alpine style. Very difficult to recover during the effort and the summit day lasted 24 hours.
http://www.grivelnorthamerica.com/headlines.php?id=34
http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/patagonia.go?assetid=10109
Steve and Vince's line on the Rupal Face
Steve on the summit of Nanga Parbat
2004: First ascent of the “House Route” on K7 (6942m) in the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan. The 2650-meter high line is on the southwest face is graded 5.10, A2, 80-degree ice, M6+. Steve climbed it alone in 41 hours roundtrip from BC making the second ascent of the peak.
2004: Second ascent of the Lowe-Jones route (with some variations) on the north face of North Twin (5.9, A3, M?), Canadian Rockies, with Marko Prezelj. This ascent, 30 years after the first brought modern dry-tooling techniques to the high mountains.
2003: First ascent of Hajji Brakk (5985m), in the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan, alone, by a new route (5.9, 65 degrees, 1200m), roundtrip in 19 hours, July 31, 2003.
2001: Fifth ascent of the Infinite Spur on Mount Foraker, Alaska. (5.9, WI4, Alaskan Grade VI), House and Rolando Garibotti climbed the route in 25 hours up, 20 hours down. All previous ascents had taken at least nine days.
2000: Third ascent of the “Czech Direct" aka Slovak Route, Denali, Alaska (5.9, WI6, M5, Alaskan Grade VI,) House, with fellow Gym Jones disciple Mark Twight and Gym Jones candidate Scott Backes climbed the face in 60 hours non-stop. Previous ascents had taken 7 and 11 days respectively.
1999: First ascent of “M16” on the east face of Howse Peak, Canadian Rockies (WI 7+, A2). This climb, done in winter was, "the best adventure route of them all, finishing this route almost took more than we had to give."
Steve's Motto:
Steve on the awesome 14th pitch of "The Gift That Keeps on Giving", Mount Bradley during the first and only ascent.